Sun Sentinel
Psst! The Secret's Now Out on Pompano Italian Eatery December 1, 1995
"Best-kept secret" is a cliche, over-used and often-abused. But it's the most fitting introduction to a column about Gianni's Ristorante, the full name of this "discovery". An Atlantic Boulevard blockhouse, which looks like a fortress from the road, Gianni's has been hidden for seven years, its fine dining, white-tablecloth ambiance, and inviting greenhouse porch all largely concealed from the bustling traffic. The locals know about Gianni's, a popular escape for lunch and a neighborhood favorite for celebrations or just good old Italian food any night of the week. Preparing that food is John Gentile, the long and lean chef on view in the kitchen. You can see him and his capable crew if you look over the partition stretching from the front and rear entrances. It's an attractive divider, adorned with greenery and a variety of bottled and tinned Italian imports. When i arrived for lunch a few days ago, Johnny was forming blobs of dough into the excellent garlic rolls that come with all meals - rushed to the tables fresh-baked from the oven. Johnny went from that not-so-lowly task to preparing orders of $5.95 and $6.95 chicken and veal, given the francese, parmigiana and pizzaoila treatments. I selected francese and it was very good, delicately dusted with a light egg coating and lightened with just enough lemon to give it character. The salad, which preceded my entree, and a side dish of spaghetti marinara also were noteworthy, along with the $2.50 order of minstrone. Out front, but also in and out of the kitchen, is Johnny's father, Ciro, surely one of the calmest, most competent owners-managers-maitre d's around. A real pro, he's been involved as owner or partner in many excellent Fort Lauderdale restaurants, a total of nine including the old Eduardo's on Las Olas, La Scala on Federal Highway, Capriccio in Pembroke Pines and Adam's Rib operations in Davie and Lighthouse Point. When I see Ciro Gentile at the podium or working in the room, I know I'm going to have good food. My lunch and an earlier dinner for four proved no exception to the rule. Our dinners commenced with most promising appetizers, selected from the list of ten ($3.95-$6.95), with such specials of the night as grilled portobellos- perfectly prepared and a terrific introduction. We thought the same about the excellent stuffed mushrooms, the fried-to-order calamari with bracing fra diavolo sauce, and the smoky grilled eggplant bedded down with roast peppers- hold the anchovies- and dressed with a fine house vinaigrette enhanced with balsamic vinegar and select spices, then garnished with mozzarella and red onion. For the main action, one can dine at Gianni's on entrees as simple as $7.95 and $8.95 pizzas, served with the fine house salads, or $8.95 strombolis. There also are 16 pasta dishes, pegged from $8.95 for canneloni or linguine, penne or spaghetti with oil or garlic. to $11.95 for linguine with red or white clam sauce- a real winner we were told by a neighboring table. One of our four choices was pasta, baked ziti, but we also had side dishes of far better than average spaghetti with fresh tomato sauce alongside the other entrees. Best among those were the $14.95 veal and peppers, one of the three "gianni's Specialties" on the menu; and the superb veal chop covered, in a bit of gliding the lily, with a thick slice of portobello. The $14.95 veal piccata was overly "caperized". The surplus of those tightly packed buds was brushed aside, but the liquid of the pickling process was added with too heavy a hand and dominated what should have been a most delicate dish. Next time we'll have to "Hold the Capers!"- along with the anchovies. There will most certainly be a next time. Ciro and Johnny and all the crew are doing so many things in preparing and presenting such honest Italian fare, in offering good value for the money, they are too good to stay a secret. Written by: Robert Tolf